Giant leather-and-Rexine sandwiches jut out of the walls on either side of the new eatery Between Breads – but that is just a front for a cosy restaurant, designed by Ayaz Basrai’s Busride Studio. Glossy red tables reflect the condiments arrayed on them – ketchup, mustard, Tabasco and Dettol hand sanitiser – and are set off by the white bar stools, all within easy reach of an Archie comic.
The only reading material we were interested in was the menu. We felt our heart leap with joy at the assorted use of bacon: on fries, between several kinds of breads – burger buns and crunchy baguettes – or just as a side order. Vegetarians can opt for a panini (grilled tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, roasted peppers, zucchini, crumbled cottage cheese and light mayo), the spicy PLT (paneer in peri peri sauce, lettuce and tomatoes) and aloo patty burger among others. They plan to start home delivery in the area as well.
We ordered the Morning After from the Chef’s Specials section. The sandwich promised bacon, ham, a fried egg, French fries, and grilled tomatoes on a baguette brushed with garlic aioli. It was everything it’s cracked up to be, even if the kitchen took its time with it. The bread, thick but not overpowering, let the fatty bacon and its juices seep over the French fries and a beautiful, fried egg.
Having overlooked the hot dog on our first look at the menu we gave in to our curiosity and sampled the Chicago hot dog. We were hoping for chopped jalapenos but it was more than made up for by the mustard. The bacon fries were a generous basketful but could have done withsome more chopped bacon. Our Arnold Palmer – half lemonade and half lemon iced tea – was tangy, cooling and mercifully, not acidic. The pink lemonade on the other hand, is missable.
Between Breads has more than enough inventive options to keep us coming back – if only to line our stomach before a night of binge drinking. If you plan on walking in hungover though, remember you are there to eat the sandwich; the sandwich is not going to eat you.
This review first appeared in Time Out Mumbai